Neil Barnett’s Away Travels No 2
Wolverhampton… Best of times, worst of times
Breakfast at Apley Farm Shop/Restaurant: French toast with bacon and maple syrup; blueberry and lemon cake; strong coffee
Before I set off on a Sunday morning for the 2pm kick-off at Molineux to support Chelsea, the media – both social and national – was bellowing reports and responses to Noni Madueke’s mistakenly posted Instagram reaction to the city of Wolverhampton: ‘Everything about this place is shit’.
He’d meant to put it on his private account but instead delivered to his near one million followers on his public one. He was full of apologies for the rest of the day, but didn’t help his cause with the Wolves supporters by scoring a hat-trick.
So, what of Wolverhampton?
Described for decades, with the corridor to it north of Birmingham, as the black country because of the pollution from coal, coke and general industry, it’s main selling point for years seemed to be the rock’n’roll of Slade, or the soul of Beverley Knight. In my days as a music journalist in the 1980s I went to the launch of a Slade album in a Wolverhampton pub which I seem to remember finished at 4am with Noddy Holder waving goodbye to a coach load of hacks and falling backwards through the pub door, either in his own alcohol-haze or the one generated by the journos!
The bad news now is my preferred curry house has closed down. It does feel like a depressed area. But I offer up three positive lights.
1. Molineux
First of all, the stadium. I’ve always liked Molineux. It’s good for journalists, it’s good for away supporters and it’s good for atmosphere.
The press box offers an excellent view, the post-match Mixed Zone where reporters can talk to players as they pass, interview them if they are willing, is small, tight, but in a good position and gives an opportunity for normal conversation. It’s all very relaxed. Un-hostile!
Visiting supporters get the whole length of the pitch bottom tier in the stand opposite the dressing rooms, so it’s a good view with good access.
And the old build-up to games has changed with the dropping of The Liquidator by Harry J All Stars, reportedly after the West Midlands Police complained because the home supporters screamed at the four-clap join-in: “F*** off West Brom!” I wish West London Metropolitan Police would do the same at Chelsea where there is a motto everywhere: ‘No To Hate’, but the four-clap gets: ‘We Hate Tottenham’, and nothing is said.
Why would you want to introduce your rivals into your support-song?
So now Wolves play Jeff Beck’s Hi Ho Silver Lining, and silence the PA when the title comes up and 28,000 Wolves fans scream: “Hi ho Wolverhampton…” and the ground rocks.
Negatively, they still hang on to their homophobic chants at Chelsea supporters, but they’re more dressed down now.
They last won a major trophy in 1980, the League Cup when Andy Gray scored and Emlyn Hughes captained in a 1-0 win over Nottingham Forest. A long time ago. Sadly, I’ve a feeling the stadium won’t be housing Premier League matches next season. Chelsea, of course, won 6-2.
2. Istanbul
Opposite where the curry restaurant used to be is a massive Turkish restaurant that spreads for a whole block.
I wasn’t enthusiastic but was overruled by the group, so in we went. It wasn’t licensed, it wasn’t full, but the food was very decent. A huge selection of starters and a couple of spicy chicken shishes did the trick. In fact, I was so pleased with the spread I forgot to take a photograph! If Wolves stay up I won’t be opposed to returning.
3. Apley Farm Shop and Restaurant
Always a farm shop on these trips, and the game apart this is my favourite bit. It’s about 20 minutes west of Molineux, near Telford, so after an early start it was a late breakfast ahead of the game and an early lunch plus a shop next day on leaving.
The breakfast was brilliant. French toast with bacon and maple syrup, a slice of homemade blueberry and lemon cake, and perfect, strong coffee. Their homemade cakes are their specialities and they are as sumptuous as you can get.
Next day I went for the Shropshire Blue tart with salad and red onion chutney plus chips. Always local fare. Outstanding. Unfortunately, driving home next I decided against the wine.
Shropshire blue tart with salad and red onion chutney plus chips. Oustanding
The shop is okay but not of the same level. I skipped the butcher because it’s not clearly free range. The fruit and veg are fine, but best of all are the local products. For years my house has ordered by post Ludlow muesli after I first bought it there. They don’t stock it any longer, but this season I went for Pimhill Farm, their organic jumbo oats, and their muesli with figs and apricots. I’ve only had the porridge so far and I can’t stop accelerating going through the packet.
It is impossible to over-emphasise how much better these foods are than the mass produced stuff you buy in supermarkets. Shopping in farm shops like this, you’ll cut right down on your supermarket or online shops.
Apley has a wealth of activities going on, and there were a lot of children being entertained while I was there. It makes Wolverhampton a worthwhile journey.
Going back
If you’re as old as I am, then Wolverhampton is inextricably linked to the late 1960s and the appalling ‘Rivers of Blood’ speech by the member of parliament for Wolverhampton South, and Conservative government minister, Enoch Powell, anticipating racial violence and, by promoting his fears and ideas, intensifying the chances of racist violence.
Nowadays, it would surely be a criminal offence. Then, it led to his sacking from the government.
If Noni Madueke had experienced the city then he, like many of us, would have found it a lot more offensive than it is now.
But maybe Noni’s emotions were driven by the fact that it’s not just off a motorway, it feels like it’s a long way from the main arteries, a bit of a backwater.
It’s hard to believe that in the 1950s Wolves were one of the biggest clubs in Europe. They won the League in 1954, 1958 and 1959, they won the FA Cup in 1949 and 1960, they played big exhibition games against other top European clubs. Their captain, Billy Wright, was England captain, the first player to win over 100 England caps. He was the David Beckham of his day, marrying girl band (no they weren’t called that then) singer Joy Beverley, the oldest of the showbiz act The Beverley Sisters. “Sisters, sisters, there were never such devoted sisters.” Given he was on a maximum wage, she probably earned more than him.
There are statues now outside Molineux of Wright and his manager Stan Cullis. They competed in the European Cup in 1958/59 and 1959/60. Then from 1986 to 1988 the club was in the fourth tier of English football. It’s a complex history.
Now is not the worst of times. But the closure of that curry house doesn’t help.
The Joy Of Football podcast is presented every week by Martin Tyler and Neil Barnett and is available on all major platforms